Tourmaline is a Many-Coloured Thing

Joopy Gems Bi-Colour Tourmaline Polki mix

John Ruskin said, ‘The making of tourmaline is more like a medieval doctor’s prescription than the making of a respectable mineral’. This refers to the extraordinary colour range of tourmaline, completely unparalleled, which amusingly does not necessarily relate to the chemical composition. Yes, that’s correct; there is no simple relationship between composition and colour! And tourmaline stones are named more for their colour than their composition. It’s complicated, but lets break it down a bit.

The name comes from the Sinhalese word ‘toromalli’ meaning ‘mixed gems’, a term that the Dutch merchants in Sri Lanka applied to the rough, water-worn pebbles found in the gem gravels. It has been routinely confused with other gems; emerald, ruby for example, and it wasn’t until a few centuries after the first stone had been discovered, and confused with emerald, that it was recognised as a separate species. It is small differences in chemical composition that give tourmaline its differing colours. If you look at tourmaline as being a collection of related mineral species that have the same crystal structure but slightly differing chemical and physical properties, that helps to explain. They are all silicates – silicates being compositions of silicon and oxygen, and making up some 95% of the earth’s minerals, so very common. They all share certain elements – fluorine, boron, aluminium, but contain differing levels of other elements: sodium, lithium, calcium, magnesium, manganese, titanium, copper, and iron.

A tourmaline’s chemical and physical properties are used to define its species: elbaite, liddicoatite,
dravite, uvite, and schorl. However, each species will demonstrate a variety of colours. So you can’t say elbaite is pink, liddicoatite green and so on, although schorl is always black. This is what I mean when I say that tourmaline is referred to by colour rather than species. So intense hot pink tourmaline is called rubellite, blue to teal is called indicolite, green tourmaline is verdelite and paraiba is an intense neon turquoise, named for the state in which the gem producing mine was found.

The most fascinating, though, for me is the parti-colour and bi-colour stones. This tends to happen with the liddicoatite species, and it occurs when the trace elements change in either concentration or composition during the crystal’s growth. This can give rise to really striking patterns, and these stones can be cut as slices if the colour zoning occurs parallel to the length of the stone, familiarly known as ‘watermelon’ tourmaline. This term was coined for those stones with the bright pink interior and green rim, but can and is used for any slice with particolour characteristics. Alternatively the zoning can take place across the length of the stone which gives the half and half effect on a long crystal. Another very valuable type of tourmaline is known as chrome tourmaline, and this is a very vibrant green colour, and this is of either the dravite or uvite species, or a combination of both. Whilst these normally produce yellow to brown coloured crystals, when vanadium or chromium is present, they will come up bright green.

Joopy Gems Watermelon Tourmaline Mix
Joopy Gems Watermelon Tourmaline Mix

Because tourmaline crystals tend to grow long and narrow, with those very distinctive striations down the sides, you often find them in very non-standard sizes and they can be harder to find in more familiar, calibrated forms. You can only really cut them along the length as the stones tend to be dead down the length, or in very thin slices. Tourmaline is extremely strongly pleochroic, and one colour is typically much darker than the other. When you consider also that tourmaline absorbs more light down the length of the stone rather than across the width, a crystal that appears, say, light green across the width of the stone may well appear almost black down the length.

You can also get chatoyant tourmaline, although the fibres are relatively coarse, and tourminalted quartz. Schorl is not used much these days but was popular in Victorian times as mourning jewellery, as it was a great deal tougher than jet. As always, to shop my tourmaline, click here

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Bi-colour beauties

Joopy Gems bi-colour tourmaline header

Alot of people were interested in these: calibrated bi-colour tourmaline rounds, ovals and pears. It’s taken me so long to get them listed, and I wanted to have them listed in time for my sale but I didn’t quite, so I’ve extended the sale. If you like these, you can get them on a 25% discount until Wednesday midnight 29th November. The rounds come in 4mm, 5mm, 6mm and 7mm and the pears and ovals in 3x4mm, 6x4mm and 7x5mm. They are all priced according to weight and how good the colour is. To browse the entire collection, click here. Coupon code FIREGEM25 will get you 25% off until midnight, Wednesday 29th November EST.

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Tourmaline De-Stash

Joopy Gems Tourmaline De-stash sign

My de-stash sale continues, this time with a focus on tourmaline baguettes and bi- and parti-colour mixes. Up to 35% discount, and these are normal stock items, no seconds. I’ve got a lot of new tourmaline stock coming in November and I’m keen to clear out the old. Keep your eyes out over the next few days as I add more items to this section! Items are mostly only available in the Hong Kong store, but I have a free-shipping coupon running until the end of the month to make things easier:  O17FS1

To shop the tourmaline de-stash sale, click here!

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Rainbow Beauty

Joopy Gems bi-colour tourmaline rose cut freeforms
Tourmaline rose cut freeforms; parti-colour and plain

Well, I listed these a few days ago and already they are going fast. Lovely bi and parti-colour tourmaline rose cut freeforms – also known as polki cut, if that makes more sense to you. The fascinating multi-coloured patterns that occur, and that make this material so unique are caused by changes in the concentration of trace elements during crystal growth. It is these trace elements that often give stones their different colours; manganese for red, pink or brown crystals, iron for dark blue or black, chromium for green and so on. As the crystal grows, if it is exposed to different trace elements, it will change colour as it grows. These are always so popular; partly due to their vibrancy, I think but also because they are unique. You can find them here, just in the Hong Kong store.

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Watermelon Candy

Joopy Gems watermelon tourmaline slices and rose cuts

Or parti-coloured tourmaline, to give it its correct title. Not, as my slightly po-faced GIA instructor said, as in, ‘let’s have a party.’ That may have been a joke. It was slightly hard to tell. New in stock, I have more pieces of this most beautiful and fascinating of stones in a breathtaking array of colours. I have new slices and some rose cut (polki) pieces, and each piece has been hand-selected by me for either its pattern – complex or simple, its colour – unusual or gorgeous, its unusual combinations of colours, or it’s saturation – saturated or subtle. The green and orange polki, top left, or the teal green surrounded by black slice towards the top right; the pale pink and blue polkis, of which I have several, and blue is always a popular colour that goes fast.

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Clarity of these stones can be rather mixed, but most of these are not bad and many have the kind of clarity characteristics that I think are rather beautiful; for instance you can see mirror-like inclusions on several of the stones, which sparkle as the light catches them with a spectral flash. Tourmaline crystals are very distinctive; broadly triangular in shape with striations down the sides and the colour zoning is due to a change in the concentration or composition of the trace elements that give the stone its colour during its growth. Iron, titanium and manganese induce different colours and yet others might be due to colour centres caused by radiation. To shop watermelon slices, click here;  to shop freeform rose cuts (polki), click here.

So many gorgeous examples of watermelon tourmaline jewellery around, but if I had to pick out one I have long coveted Barbara Heinrich Studio’s watermelon tourmaline slice necklace. This also has hand-fabricated 18k gold shell elements and gold tube spacers. Love those gold shells, echoing the shape of the tourmaline slices, and love the matched-but-not-matched slices.

Barbara Heinrich Studio Watermelon tourmaline slice necklace with five hand-fabricated 18kt gold shell elements and gold tube spacers, 15.5" long with a 2" extension chain.

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