Tourmaline is a Many-Coloured Thing

Joopy Gems Bi-Colour Tourmaline Polki mix

John Ruskin said, ‘The making of tourmaline is more like a medieval doctor’s prescription than the making of a respectable mineral’. This refers to the extraordinary colour range of tourmaline, completely unparalleled, which amusingly does not necessarily relate to the chemical composition. Yes, that’s correct; there is no simple relationship between composition and colour! And tourmaline stones are named more for their colour than their composition. It’s complicated, but lets break it down a bit.

The name comes from the Sinhalese word ‘toromalli’ meaning ‘mixed gems’, a term that the Dutch merchants in Sri Lanka applied to the rough, water-worn pebbles found in the gem gravels. It has been routinely confused with other gems; emerald, ruby for example, and it wasn’t until a few centuries after the first stone had been discovered, and confused with emerald, that it was recognised as a separate species. It is small differences in chemical composition that give tourmaline its differing colours. If you look at tourmaline as being a collection of related mineral species that have the same crystal structure but slightly differing chemical and physical properties, that helps to explain. They are all silicates – silicates being compositions of silicon and oxygen, and making up some 95% of the earth’s minerals, so very common. They all share certain elements – fluorine, boron, aluminium, but contain differing levels of other elements: sodium, lithium, calcium, magnesium, manganese, titanium, copper, and iron.

A tourmaline’s chemical and physical properties are used to define its species: elbaite, liddicoatite,
dravite, uvite, and schorl. However, each species will demonstrate a variety of colours. So you can’t say elbaite is pink, liddicoatite green and so on, although schorl is always black. This is what I mean when I say that tourmaline is referred to by colour rather than species. So intense hot pink tourmaline is called rubellite, blue to teal is called indicolite, green tourmaline is verdelite and paraiba is an intense neon turquoise, named for the state in which the gem producing mine was found.

The most fascinating, though, for me is the parti-colour and bi-colour stones. This tends to happen with the liddicoatite species, and it occurs when the trace elements change in either concentration or composition during the crystal’s growth. This can give rise to really striking patterns, and these stones can be cut as slices if the colour zoning occurs parallel to the length of the stone, familiarly known as ‘watermelon’ tourmaline. This term was coined for those stones with the bright pink interior and green rim, but can and is used for any slice with particolour characteristics. Alternatively the zoning can take place across the length of the stone which gives the half and half effect on a long crystal. Another very valuable type of tourmaline is known as chrome tourmaline, and this is a very vibrant green colour, and this is of either the dravite or uvite species, or a combination of both. Whilst these normally produce yellow to brown coloured crystals, when vanadium or chromium is present, they will come up bright green.

Joopy Gems Watermelon Tourmaline Mix
Joopy Gems Watermelon Tourmaline Mix

Because tourmaline crystals tend to grow long and narrow, with those very distinctive striations down the sides, you often find them in very non-standard sizes and they can be harder to find in more familiar, calibrated forms. You can only really cut them along the length as the stones tend to be dead down the length, or in very thin slices. Tourmaline is extremely strongly pleochroic, and one colour is typically much darker than the other. When you consider also that tourmaline absorbs more light down the length of the stone rather than across the width, a crystal that appears, say, light green across the width of the stone may well appear almost black down the length.

You can also get chatoyant tourmaline, although the fibres are relatively coarse, and tourminalted quartz. Schorl is not used much these days but was popular in Victorian times as mourning jewellery, as it was a great deal tougher than jet. As always, to shop my tourmaline, click here

joopygems.com

Joopy Gems Yellow Diamond 4mm Rose Cut Rond

Sunshine on a Rainy Day

Which is how I see the Pantone colours this year. When I first saw ‘Illuminating’ and ‘Ultimate Grey’ I’ll admit I thought they were a bit uninspiring. I’m still not sure that grey is actually a colour. However, actually I think they work really well for jewellers, not least because they can refer to either your setting metal or your stones. Gold for yellow, white metals for grey. Then with stones, the choice is not huge but it is particularly beautiful with a flexible price range.

At the more inexpensive range there is lemon quartz with a cool, greenish overtone. This is a great stone for having cut in large sizes as it isn’t hard to find clean specimens and the carat price is reasonable even for large stones. Citrine runs from pale straw through to a deep almost orange-yellow and I think looks awesome with white metals. Golden rutilated quartz would often work, and these stones can be real showstoppers. More unusual stones might be tourmaline which again will come in any shade from pale yellow to deep gold, yellow beryl, which is often quite light or chrysoberyl. I have introduced some yellow diamond rose cuts in my shop; clean yellow diamond is very expensive but the included variety still offers plenty of glitter without making a hole in your pocket.

Grey stones can be simple grey moonstones; a very underrated stone that is really wearable and flexible; it just goes with everything and has an understated beauty, especially when combined with the chatoyancy that glides across the stone. Grey pearls can be pricey Tahitian or inexpensive freshwater varieties and there are all varieties of haematite, specularite and agates as well. I also have some lovely speckled grey diamonds, which like the yellow have amazing brilliance.

Below from left, I love Sarah Alexander’s multi-gemstone earrings; the mixed gemstones in different shapes and sizes and the use of colour. Natalie Perry’s ring is a pefect example of a non-traditional diamond ring, and I do prefer this style, with more included stones and irregular shapes; so much more exciting than the classic diamond solitaire. Sarah Alexanders silver and vermeil earrings demonstrate how you can work these colours using just metals and I love the chunky styling of Maviada’s white gold and citrine earrings; lovely big cabochons set in pleasingly rounded and chunky white gold.

To shop all of my Pantone 2021 themed stones, click here

joopygems.com

Pink does not stink, part 1

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Alright, I admit it; when my older daughter went through her pink phase, which lasted for years I could not wait for it to end. But there is something about pink tourmaline which is simply irresistable, and I’ve just listed a whole new bunch of free-size cabochons and mixed cuts. These here are the mixed cuts; small to medium in size and a really gorgeous selection from pale petal pink through bubble-gum and and apricot to deep, vibrant fuchsia. Some of these absolutely glow. Not just pink either; I have a couple of really gorgeous yellows; a warm sunshine and sharp citrus as well as a couple of bluish-greens. I do adore tourmaline; it is my favourite stone, and one of the things I love is the colour range, so many different shades. Legend has it that this is because it travelled along a rainbow and picked up all of the different colours. It’s also supposed to inspire creativity. Whether or not you believe that, I can see any one of these pieces holding their own in a piece of jewellery and let me tell you, these stones appear pretty clean. One of the things I love about tourmaline is the pleochroism, and you can see that face-up in these two pears below: the apricot and the pink alternating as you turn the stones in the light.

Tourmaline is often rather included; growth tubes, liquid inclusions are common and frequently eye-visible. Generally the dominant value-factor is the colour, and with darker stones, this will mask the inclusions. I aim for accuracy and detail in my pictures, which show up every single speck – due to the macro lens and the fact that they are blown up several times past their actual size. This is good because it means that you can see exactly what you are getting but on the other hand be aware that a lot of these tiny inclusions are not easily obvious to the naked eye and do not impact lustre. Above are the pinks, but below, I also have these gorgeous yellows and greens, below. To shop all tourmaline mixed cuts, click here.

From left, clockwise, I love the heavy and sinuous lines of Cassandra Goads ‘Deux Poires’ Pink tourmaline and gold ring. The gold perfectly draws out the warm pink tones and I love the weight of it. To the right above is Luxury by Design’s green tourmaline, silver and gold ring. This is a classic long and thin tourmaline crystal and love that the band is as wide as the crystal is long – a full 12mm meaning that this is one chunky ring! And finally, I’ve written about Stone Fever Jewelry before, as I love the tactile texturing of the metal. If I had one of his rings, I’d be touching it all day long. Below right is another warm gold and tourmaline ring; this time an orange-pink trillion set in a textured band.

joopygems.com